Guatemala

Captured on the third Sunday of Cuaresma. Church - Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Jocotenango

Love, beauty, and culture can be felt immediately once landing in Guatemala City. After passing through the families and friends gathered at the airport to greet their loved ones, we immediately moved on to the historic city of Antigua. Our group did ample research before our trip, but it was a surprise from our Airbnb host that we came for the second week of Cuaresma, The Lenten Processions. Sunday, March 1st, was the second of six processions in the weeks leading up to Semana Santa. Each week a sanctious vigil is held at a different church, showcasing the revered sculptures and alfombras (rugs) handmade from colorful sawdust and other raw materials. As the sun set, hundreds of cucuruchos (bearers) in purple robes took to the streets while swinging lit incense and carrying large floats on their backs. This period celebrates Spanish tradition and indigenous culture, bringing the community together for Easter. Lifetimes ago, Antigua was the capital of Guatemala and the epicenter of economic, cultural, and religious influence. Today, Antigua consists of several historical churches and ruin sites home to these sacred traditions, along with authentic food spots lining the cobblestone streets. 

Our group before the hike. Looking left to right - Harrison (Owner of Whitecap Visuals), Sam, Hall, Ashley, Rachael, Kyla

After a few short days in this charming city, we packed our things in preparation for an overnight hike at Volcán Acatenango. This trek is known for its breathtaking views of Volcán Fuego, one of Guatemala’s constantly active volcanoes. We chose ATK Tours due to its smaller group size and helpful accommodations, and we were able to take our time and enjoy the journey up with multiple guides helping us through. A couple of our guides explained how they may do this hike 2-3 times a week, putting into perspective the hard work they are putting in to make our trip seamless.

While the 6 hour ascent was very challenging with a steep incline almost the whole way, the destination that waits above the clouds is completely unique and well worth it. Once reaching basecamp, we had the option to extend our hike and do the extra 4 hour trek straight onto Volcán Fuego to witness the eruptions even closer. Although myself and a friend decided against it to rest our legs, the rest of the group went on to Fuego and were treated with breathtaking close-up views of the erupting volcano.While they were gone, we sat by the campfire as the sun set and watched Fuego erupt about every 5-10 minutes, each time amazing us as if we had never seen it before. The rest of the group returned from Fuego exhausted but claimed it was worth it. As one of the guides said before they started the Fuego hike, “It’s a powerful moment, but you have to be powerful to get there.”

A long exposure of a huge eruption seen from basecamp

After little sleep and a short sunrise climb to the summit the next morning, our energy was at a high on our descent. With fewer breaks and our time essentially cut in half compared to the way up, we all ended our hike letting gravity take us freely running to the bottom. What felt like a deserved ride to the finish line, it rounded out our mental and physical feats leaving us ready to relax the rest of the trip. 

Sunrise on Lake Atitlán from our dock

The town of Santa Cruz captured by drone

We then took our trip two hours north to Lake Atitlán, a vast lake with a handful of lively villages, some only accessible by lanchas (water taxis.) A 10 minute ride from the lake’s main city of Panajachel brought us to Santa Cruz La Laguna, a small town with just a few restaurants and hostels on the water.

Santa Cruz is built into the hilly volcanic crater walls of Lake Atitlán, allowing for little rest as we arrived at our Airbnb in the trees nearly 150 steps up from our semi-private dock.  Unlike most of the main ports around the lake, it was completely safe to swim off this dock and take advantage of the fresh clear water of Lake Atitlán. Most docks are polluted with agricultural runoff and untreated wastewater, leaving only a handful of areas open for swimmers. Over the next few days, we leisurely explored towns like San Marcos and San Juan, each offering unique perspectives of Guatemalan culture. In San Marcos, we paid 40 Guatemalan quetzales to enter Cerro Tzankujil, a nature reserve rich in resources and indigenous culture. We could’ve spent all day hiking and seeing the Mayan altars and wooden carvings, but we focused on El Trampolín, a popular cliff jumping platform hanging 40ft over the lake. The ecotourism hotspot was buzzing with international travelers encouraging each other to take the jump. After another rush of adrenaline on this trip, we were able to wander through the incense filled streets to a lakeside lunch.

The main street of San Juan bustling with shops, people, and tuk tuks

Comparatively to the chill-toned and spiritual world of San Marcos, San Juan across the water engaged tourists straight off the dock. The main road is draped in vibrant umbrellas, with welcoming galleries and shops packed together the entire way. There was an abundance of women’s weaving collectives and painters showcasing their talent right in the studio for passersby to watch. The intricate patterns and sharp colors created complex stories of their cultural identity, often depicting community life with art naïf, a popular self-taught style in San Juan that influences one-dimensional yet bright and whimsical pieces. 

Our week-long trip was filled with a healthy mix of adventure and respite, leaving us wanting to stay for weeks longer. There was something for everyone, and even more to be experienced. Had we stayed longer, we would have explored the various ancient Mayan cities in the northeast region of Guatemala. Regarded as powerful Maya superpowers in ancient times, sites such as Tikal and El Mirador are home to grand limestone temples and lush jungle covering the ruined cities. For now, we reminisce through the sentimental photos and videos captured throughout our time there. 

Images by Harrison Keeler